Series

Tides — the series

5 essays on one idea, from the one that introduces it to the one that assumes the rest.
  1. The tidal field is a difference. The pull of a distant body at each point of a sphere, minus its pull at the sphere's centre. What remains stretches along the line to the source and squeezes across it — two bulges, not one.

    The tide is a difference, which is why there are two of them

    The Moon pulls the ocean toward it. That explains one bulge. The second one, on the far side, is the whole of the physics — and it comes from subtracting.

    part 1 · gravitation
  2. The tide across a moon, against the moon's own gravity. The tidal acceleration across a satellite and the satellite's own surface gravity, both in units of that surface gravity, against distance from the primary in planet radii. The tide falls as the inverse cube and the self-gravity does not fall at all, so they cross once — at 2.23 radii for the density ratio drawn. Inside the crossing the tide wins and a body held together only by its own weight comes apart.

    The distance at which a moon stops holding together

    The tide across a body falls as the inverse cube; the body's own gravity does not fall at all. There is therefore exactly one crossing, and Saturn's rings end within a few per cent of it.

    part 2 · gravitation
  3. Integrating the measured recession back: the Moon reaches the Earth 1.54 Gyr ago. The Earth–Moon separation and the length of the Earth's day, integrated backwards from the measured present recession rate of 3.83 cm per year. Constant-Q tidal friction makes a^(13/2) linear in time, so the history is a single line in a variable nobody plots, and it is calibrated to the laser-ranging measurement rather than to a modelled k₂/Q — the k₂/Q it implies is 0.0257, or Q = 11.6 for the Earth's k₂ of 0.299, which is a startlingly dissipative Earth. Run back at that rate the separation reaches zero 1.54 Gyr ago and crosses the Roche limit at 2.88 Earth radii only 4 years before it, so the drawing is cut off there rather than extrapolated. The Moon is 4.5 Gyr old, so this is a refutation and not a date: the present rate cannot have been the rate, and a mean Q of 34 — drawn dashed, reaching 4.51 Gyr — is the sort of value the age requires. Tidal rhythmites at 620 Myr put the day at 21.9 h and the Moon at 96.5 per cent of its present distance, and this history reads 20.1 h and 92.4 per cent — too fast and too close, which is the same failure the zero crossing is. Day length follows from total angular momentum, 23.93 h today, 9.84 h at half the present lunar distance and 4.97 h at the Roche limit, and depends on the separation alone: it is the same curve whatever Q is. The rate of lengthening the recession requires is 2.10 ms per century, against a tidal total of about 2.3 including the Sun's tide, which slows the Earth without moving the Moon, and an observed 1.75 from ancient eclipses and occultations — the shortfall being the Earth's moment of inertia falling as the mantle rebounds from the last glaciation.

    A day five hours long

    The tidal bulge leads, so the Earth's spin is being paid into the Moon's orbit. Run the measured payment backwards and two curves come out of one integration — a timeline that is refuted by the Moon's own age, and a day length that is refuted by nothing.

    part 3 · gravitation
  4. The tide's spectrum, with every frequency set by the sky. The equilibrium tide-raising potential broken into its largest constituents, each a sinusoid whose frequency is a sum of whole-number multiples of six astronomical rates — the Earth's turning relative to the Moon, the Moon's and the Sun's motions round the sky, and the slow turning of the lunar perigee and node — and whose height is its equilibrium amplitude relative to M₂. They fall in three bands: near two cycles a day (M₂ at 1.9323, S₂ at exactly 2, N₂, K₂), near one (K₁, O₁, P₁, Q₁), and near zero (fortnightly, monthly, semi-annual). Every frequency is known to many decimal places from astronomy; what a harbour does to each, its own amplitude and phase, is not, and is the only thing a tide table has to measure.

    A tide table is astronomy with the harbour fitted

    Nobody can compute the tide at a harbour from the Moon and the Sun, because the ocean's response depends on coastlines and depths nobody models well enough. Tides are predicted to centimetres years ahead anyway, because the frequencies are pure astronomy and only the response to each one has to be measured. The method needs a record long enough to tell neighbouring frequencies apart, and a correction for a cycle of 18.6 years.

    part 4 · gravitation
  5. Where the tide's energy goes, and what the deep ocean needs. Power in terawatts. The Moon and Sun do work on the oceans at about 3.7 TW, measured from the slowing of the Earth's spin and the Moon's recession and, since the 1990s, located by satellite altimetry: about 2.6 TW is lost in shallow seas, about 1 TW in the deep ocean where the tide flows over ridges and seamounts and makes internal waves, and about 0.1 TW in the solid Earth. The open bar is what Munk and Wunsch estimated the deep ocean needs to keep its stratification against the upwelling of cold water, about 2 TW; the winds supply part of it, the tides — on these estimates — about half.

    The tide that holds up the deep ocean

    Cold water sinks near the poles and fills the deep ocean, and something has to stir heat back down into it or the whole ocean below the surface would become one cold pool. The stirring costs about two terawatts. The winds supply some of it. The rest comes from the Moon: about a terawatt of the tide's energy is lost not on continental shelves but in the deep ocean, where the tide flowing over ridges and seamounts makes waves on the ocean's internal layers that break far below the surface.

    part 5 · gravitation

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